Of course, this was John Mossman's house rather than Knox's, but I guess history hasn't treated them in equal measure. I hadn't been here for over two decades, and I was delighted to come back as a refugee from the Royal Mile's remorseless retail therapy. Scotland in the mid 1500s was a turbulent place; Darnley's demise, the siege of Edinburgh castle, Knox's 'monstrous regiment of women' gaffe - they all rank with the best Blackadder yarns. And then there's the uncanny similarity between past and present fiery demagogues with long beards and nifty hats. On a wet wintry weekday I found this museum to be very welcoming, contemplative and educational. The idea of merchants renting business booths from Mossman can be clearly visualised from the uncluttered room layouts, and the ceiling beam decorations are breathtaking.At £5 a pop, well worth a visit.